What is on the page
- Balance, APR, minimum
- From each statement, on the same day. The APR is the purchase rate for cards (promotional balances have their own rate and end date, worth a separate line), the note rate for loans.
- Interest per month
- Balance × APR ÷ 12: what each debt costs you to carry every month. Sorting by this column is the avalanche order in dollar terms and usually the most motivating column on the page.
- Months at minimum
- A rough count of months to clear the debt paying only the fixed minimum. For cards with a percentage-based minimum the real figure is longer, often decades; the point of the column is to show which balances are not really being paid down.
- Snowball order
- Smallest balance first regardless of rate. Costs a little more interest, produces a first win within months, and the research on real households says that win is what keeps people going.
- Avalanche order
- Highest APR first. Mathematically cheapest. Works for people who are motivated by the numbers and can wait longer for the first balance to disappear.
- Extra toward first target
- Your monthly debt budget minus the sum of all minimums. This is the money that does the work; the method decides where it goes.
- Payment, interest, principal, new balance
- On the tracker: what you paid, what the lender charged, the difference that actually reduced the debt, and where you stand. Watching principal grow month by month is the payoff of doing this on paper.
- Each box
- Starting balance ÷ 50. Color a box each time cumulative principal paid passes another 2%. The chart does not care about interest; it tracks the balance only.
Snowball or avalanche?
The avalanche (highest rate first) always costs less in interest; the snowball (smallest balance first) usually gets finished. For the sample household the difference is modest: avalanche saves a few hundred dollars over the plan, snowball clears the first card three months sooner. Pick the one you'll stick with. A sensible hybrid which the sample uses: clear any 0% promotional balance before its deferred-interest deadline, then avalanche, but reorder two debts if one is small enough to kill in a month or two. Whatever the order, the mechanics are the same: minimums on everything, every spare dollar on the target, and when the target is gone its minimum rolls onto the next one. The payment never shrinks until the list is empty.
How to use the sheets
- Debt list: once, from statements. Enter the monthly amount you can commit (from the budget); Excel shows the extra available and the interest each debt costs. Number the snowball and avalanche orders and circle the one you're using.
- Monthly tracker: one sheet for the current target. Enter the payment each month; Excel calculates interest, principal and the new balance. When it hits zero, start a sheet for the next debt with the rolled-up payment.
- Progress chart: one per debt, on the wall. Color the boxes; write the payoff date in the big box when it comes.
- Every three months, redo the debt list to see the total fall and reconfirm the order.
- Call each card issuer and ask for a lower rate; a third of people who ask get one.
- A 0% balance transfer card (3 to 5% fee) can pause interest on the highest-rate balance for 12 to 21 months; only worth it if you'll clear the balance in the promo window and stop using the old card.
- Windfalls (tax refund, bonus, gifts) go to the target in full, as the sample's December bonus does.
- Round every payment up, and pay the day the money arrives rather than on the due date; for cards, interest is calculated on daily balances, so earlier payments save a little.
- Don't stop retirement matching to pay off low-rate debt; do pause above-match contributions while clearing anything over 15%.
What not to do
- Close paid-off cards immediately; it raises your utilization ratio and can lower your score. Keep them open with a small recurring charge, or close them slowly.
- Take a consolidation loan without closing the gap that created the debt; the cards fill back up and the loan is added on top.
- Use a 401(k) loan or hardship withdrawal for consumer debt except as a last resort before default.
- Pay a debt-settlement company; most of what they do you can do by calling the creditor, and the credit damage is severe.
- Skip the minimum on any debt to pay more on the target. Late fees and penalty APRs cost more than the extra gains.
Editing the Excel versions
In Excel the debt list totals balances and minimums, calculates monthly interest and the rough months-at-minimum, and the extra available; the tracker calculates interest, principal and the running balance from the APR you enter. For a card-specific plan with the minimum-only comparison, use the credit card payoff planner; for a fixed loan, the amortization schedule. Watch the total fall on the net worth worksheet each year.
Questions
Which debt should I pay off first?
Any 0% promotional balance that is about to expire with deferred interest, then either the highest-rate debt (avalanche, cheapest) or the smallest balance (snowball, fastest first win). Both work; the one you finish is the right one.
Should I pay off debt or build an emergency fund first?
Most planners suggest a small starter fund (one month of essentials, or $1,000) first, so an unexpected bill does not go back on the card, then attack high-interest debt, then build the full three-to-six-month fund. Low-rate debt (under about 6%) can be paid on schedule while you save.
How is monthly interest on a credit card calculated?
Issuers apply a daily periodic rate (APR ÷ 365) to each day's balance and sum it for the cycle. Balance × APR ÷ 12, which the tracker uses, is a close approximation when the balance doesn't swing much during the month.
Does paying off debt help my credit score?
Yes, mainly through lower utilization (balances as a share of limits), which is the second-largest factor. Paying installment loans off early helps less and can briefly lower a score when the account closes; keep paid-off cards open if there's no fee.
What if I cannot cover the minimums?
Call the creditors before missing a payment; hardship programs with reduced rates or payments exist at most issuers. A non-profit credit counselling agency (NFCC member) can set up a debt management plan with lower rates. Avoid for-profit settlement firms.
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